Girard-Perregaux at the GPHG 2016
Girard-Perregaux at the GPHG 2016
The Girard-Perregaux Manufacture is proud to see the work of its watchmakers rewarded by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2016.
Indeed, the Manufacture which celebrates its 225th anniversary this year had the honor of seeing its emblematic Three Bridges distinguished twice during the ceremony in Geneva. The prestigious Jury awarded the High Mechanical Ladies Watches Prize to the Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge and the Tourbillon Prize to the famous Esmeralda Tourbillon, reedited this year in tribute to the masterpiece Pocket watch of the Manufacture, already rewarded in 1889 by a gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris.
«It is an honor to be rewarded with two prizes distinguishing our know-how in Haute Horlogerie in both categories Ladies High Mech and Tourbillon with a men’s watch.» stated Antonio Calce, CEO of Girard-Perregaux.
CAT’ S EYE TOURBILLON WITH GOLD BRIDGE
In an ode to femininity, Girard Perregaux has enhanced its iconic Tourbillon with Gold Bridge to enchant lovers of beautiful watchmaking. The highly coveted Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge is a perfect fusion of expertise in both watchmaking and jewellery. Its feminine curves sparkle with 50 beautifully set diamonds on the bezel. Its distinctive oval case in white gold frames a superb dial of meticulously decorated white mother-of-pearl. Gently rounded leaf-shaped hands oat elegantly above a oral motif engraved in relief on the mother-of-pearl, the two elements coming together as one. Hours and minutes progress gracefully under a sapphire crystal signed with a delicate transfer of the GP logo.
At 6 o’clock, the iconic Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon, an embodiment of the company’s expertise, reigns majestically under a Gold Bridge delicately carved with a oral motif that echoes the dial. It precisely regulates the running of the manually wound calibre GP09700- 00012.
Containing 174 parts decorated, adjusted and assembled by hand, its perfect nishing is another sign of the exacting standards of Girard-Perregaux, a pioneer in producing beautiful mechanical watches for women. The Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge is available on a red alligator strap with a gold folding buckle set with diamonds.
BRIDGES LA ESMERALDA TOURBILLON
To celebrate its 225th anniversary, Girard-Perregaux is pleased to present an exceptional pink-gold Esmeralda Tourbillon. The new iteration of the Esmeralda Tourbillon is inspired by the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges pocket chronometer that won the gold medal at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1889. This majestic timepiece is the mechanical expression of an aesthetic quest dedi- cated to achieving the Maison’s goal of ultimate accuracy.
The history of Girard-Perregaux has always been punctuated by innovations and technical feats. Renowned for the quality of its complication watches and for the care devoted to their nishes, the Manufacture pays particular attention to the aesthetics of its creations.
THE TOURBILLON WITH THREE GOLD BRIDGES – A REFLECTION OF THE MANUFACTURE’S EXPERTISE
Since founding his Manufacture and the development of the rst Tourbillon with Three Bridges in 1860, Constant Girard had been on the verge of watchmaking perfection. In designing a benchmark caliber featuring a unique layout, Constant Girard-Perregaux immediately distinguished himself by inventing the concept of dramatizing mechanics. Thanks to his ambitious staging of the components, he succeeded in giving the tourbillon an artistic dimension, which was previously considered to be a purely technical mechanism. In 1867, this almost minimalist layout won its rst timekeeping award from the Neuchâtel Observatory and most likely enabled Girard-Perregaux, once the layout had been patented in 1884, to create the ethereal Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges complication, an utterly unique signature.
This watch structure, which was already considered visionary at the time of its creation, made it possible for the pocket watch that featured a tourbillon, pivoted detent and three gold bridges, which was presented at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1889, to win the gold medal in its category. The magni cent case was engra- ved by renowned artist Fritz Kundert, who at the time was at the very pinnacle of his career. This piece, whose name “La Esmeralda” was derived from the name of the Paris and Mexico boutiques of Hauser, Zivy & Cie, the famous jeweler and watch merchant, was to become the property of General Por rio Diaz, then President of Mexico.
With its exemplary nishes, this one-of-a-kind piece marked a watchmaking pinnacle in graphic balance and became a supreme benchmark for both its nishes and its attention to detail. In 1970, thanks to a lucky chain of events, the piece reentered the collection of the Manufacture Girard-Perregaux Museum. Transcendent and majestic with its inimitable and unequaled design, the Tourbillon with Three Bridges caliber has earned a place in watchmaking his- tory as the oldest watch movement still in production, since its ove- rall layout has remained unchanged since its introduction in 1860. The qualities of a Tourbillon with Three Bridges caliber
The stylistic minimalism of the Tourbillon with Three Bridges cali- ber has always been in harmony with the ideals of ne watchmaking. This consummate work of art, which presents a layout that respects the principles of the golden ratio, is assembled from start to nish by a master watchmaker, with its components nished and embellished by craftsmen who are experts in their art.
A truly successful blend of aesthetic, technical and symbolic principles, the mainplate features a barrel bridge, geartrain bridge and tourbillon bridge made from solid gold. Their double-headed arrow design is entirely hand-decorated and is inspired by the bridges of the historical Esmeralda. The surface of the arrows is mirror polished, the edges are chamfered by hand and the anks are drawn. To increase the visual contrast and to better catch the light, the arms of the bridges are delicately “rocked” – in other words, carefully rounded by hand using a burnisher. In this strict spatial layout, the three bridges are positioned parallel to one another, creating a pleasing visual effect.
In the middle of these bridges are the diamond-polished settings, which are held in place by two screws, meaning that the barrel, cen- ter wheel and tourbillon carriage must be in line with each other. The tourbillon carriage, which is comprised of 80 components, is entirely hand- nished and requires extreme skill from the watchmaker assembling it. With its characteristic hand-polished lyre, the signature of the Manufacture, this perfectly balanced organ, which performs a simply captivating rotation once per minute, houses a balance wheel which oscillates at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and bene ts from a large moment of inertia.
This caliber measures 16 lignes (36.60 mm diameter) and is 8.41 mm thick, and requires two months of work to assemble its 310 components, including 27 jewels.The three-part layout of the mainplate is apparent from the very rst glance. All of these components – including the gold bridges with organs visible on the front face, and even the number of arms of the tourbillon carriage – convey an important message. It is a reminder that the number three and its multiples underlie the measurement of past, present and future time.
AT THE HEART OF THE ESMERALDA TOURBILLON
As the successor to the 27 Tourbillons with Three Bridges registered with the Neuchâtel Observatory by Girard-Perregaux from 1865 to 1911, the Esmeralda Tourbillon tells the story of a passion for aesthetics and accuracy.
Its 18-carat pink-gold case measuring 44 mm in diameter houses the Tourbillon with Three Bridges mechanical caliber with auto- matic winding. Known as reference GP09400, this large 16-ligne movement, developed and manufactured in-house, takes up the entire caseband and, especially in this instance, features a 14.3 mm diameter tourbillon carriage and a 10.5 mm diameter balance wheel.
In the same vein, the unidirectional automatic winding system developed by Girard-Perregaux breaks new ground by now calling on a rotor that is positioned concentrically under the barrel rather than on the outer edge. Thanks to this ingenious construction, the watchmakers were able increase the diameter of the barrel drum and therefore lengthen the spring to give the piece a power re- serve of at least 60 hours, compared to 48 hours previously.
This tourbillon watch features a carriage boasting refined lines and the lyre shape of which adopts the form developed by Constant Girard-Perregaux. Traditional and contemporary, this marvelous timepiece inspired by one of the most iconic models in watchma- king history is worn on a black alligator strap, fastened to the wrist by a pink-gold triple folding clasp.